29 March 1999 - Monday

"After 14 days of sailing through completely uninhabited area we called at Puerto Natales. It's our first port since Antica left Puerto Williams. Generally our route lead through Smyth Channel. 900 litres of fuel taken from P. Williams was only enough to reach Magellan Strait. Fishermen and lighthouse staff from Fairway Island helped us later. We're sailing only in the day time, because of the navigational difficulties. All the time against the wind and current. Temperatures 4 - 10 C. We were doing 25 - 35 miles per day. Puerto Natales is not on our way (50 miles to the side), but it is the only port within a radius of 300 miles, in which we can get fuel, water, food and gas.

Crew: Marcin, Kazio, Megumi (Japan), Neto (Germany) and I.

Yacht is generally in order - we sustained few damages of hull in bow part when we were crossing the ice field in Senopia. Antica will have to be repaired before leaving for Pacific. The rest of the damages are normal.

Impressions are wonderful. All the time we see mountains, which are dark and covered with trees, but their upper parts are covered with caps of snow and glacier sometimes going down to the water. Mountains stick out from 600 to 1400 metres above the boat. Everything is very sever, virgin and extremely clean. In the sun and clear air it creates unforgettable views. At nights we anchor at previously seek fiords, mostly mooring to trees and rocks, because of  deep water just by the shore. The surrounding high rocks are a good shelter against the wind but make the radio communication difficult if not impossible. The sea is surging with life. We meet sea lions, seals, penguins, dolphins, whales and huge flocks of birds including the condors.

A couple of sea lions was observing us while we were mooring 20 metres away. When we finished they swam to the other side of the fiord to roar at us. They obviously wanted us to realise the fact that it was them who were the hosts there not us.

For three weeks now we have hardly met a person, except for the fishing boats and the lighthouse staff. Kazik keeps shooting films to make records of everything happening around. Seems to be a fine piece of work. Our next port is going to be Puerto Eden, around 300 Nm from here. Greetings for everyone".

Capt. Jurek Wąsowicz

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